Author: King Reza
Since BrainKing.com is asking players to write articles, I thought it would be a good idea to write about Knight Relay Chess which is a very interesting variation of Chess and brings extra thinking and fun to the games. I am pretty good at playing that game and will try to share some, of course not all, of my knowledge with you who are interested in learning how to play the game and improving your skills at it.
I’ll start with the rules. Basically, Knight Relay Chess has the same rules of regular Chess, meaning that pieces move like they do in Chess, etc But when a piece is located in a square covered by a friendly Knight, meaning that Knight could move to that square if the piece weren’t there, it gets the moving abilities of a Knight as a bonus. So if that piece is a pawn, now it is a pawn plus a Knight at the same time.
So, assuming that a player has made 1.E4, if the player moves his/her Knight to C3 the next move, he/she will be having a Pawn + Knight on E4. This is true even if the player first makes 1.KC3 and then moves the pawn to E4.
There’s more to the Knights than just that. They cannot be captured. So neither can you take your opponent’s Knights nor can they take yours. Not only can’t your Knights be captured, but also they cannot capture any pieces either. The Knights don’t put the Kings in check . So you can safely say that the only thing they do, up to this step, is that they give extra moving abilities to the pieces.
It’s worth mentioning that this extra moving ability is NOT permanent. So if you move the Knight to a square that no longer covers your piece’s location, the piece loses its extra moving abilities and becomes what it originally was. This is true if you move the piece to a square not covered by a Knight too.
Now, let’s start with different strategies.
Basically, the sooner you move your Knights, the sooner your pieces get the extra moving ability. It’s always safe to spend your first two moves on moving the Knights into the board. This is safe for the Black side too. If you see your opponent is moving the Knights, you just take the advantage and do the same too.
A question may be asked here and that is “Is it better to move the Knights towards the center of the board, or the sides?”
The answer seems to be obvious if you take a look at the position on the board. Let’s consider the following position:
As you can see, both players have moved the Knights for the first two moves. The White Knight in C3 has the squares A2, E2, and D1 in its range. So three pieces are made Knights and that means White can easily open the A column by moving the pawn in A2 to B4 and free the Rook on A1. I’m not going to say if it’s a good move or not, but that it’s just a possibility that can never be achieved in regular Chess so early in a game.
The White Knight on F3 has squares H2, D2, and E1 in its range. Obviously the player wouldn’t move the King next move. So that is 2 squares covered. So in two moves, both players have 5 useful pieces that are capable of moving as Knights.
If you move the Knights to the sides of the board, well, you have reduced the number to just 2, the squares C2 and F2 from the point of view of White in the above example. This undoubtedly isn’t wise.
As you can see, right now both Bishops are locked and none of the players has any control on the center of the board which is very important to have under control, so a very good move, probably the best, for white is to move one of the pawns in D2 or E2.
Now, which one, and to what square?
There are 4 possibilities: D2 to D4, D2 to E4, E2 to E4, and E2 to D4.
I personally think they are all good, but I usually play E2 to D4. There are a couple of reasons. Firstly, it opens the way for my Bishop on F1. This gives me both the advantage of moving my bishop, and Castling King side. But as I said, I cannot see any particular weaknesses if any of the four possible moves above are made.
Let me right now mention that the above and following diagrams are taken from one of my games with a very good player. I’m playing as Black.
As you see, the player has played what I’d have played too and I have responded by D7 to D5. I could have played E7 to D5 too, or even E7 to E5 if I felt like playing oddly. But since I knew my opponent was good enough to use the slightest mistake, I didn’t do it. So far, the board is clear to understand and none of us has a great advantage.
(to be continued)